It was beautiful on Sunday. Almost completely clear skies. After breakfast we drove to Fox Glacier and hiked up the glacier view trail. It was awesome to walk through a rainforest and emerge in a giant valley full of moving ice. Even more awesome is the fact that it’s usually rainy, cloudy, or foggy here, and we were getting the chance to see the glacier against blue skies. After we’d taken the trail as far as it was safe to go without a guide, we headed back to the car and continued up the road to the township of Franz Josef. Given the promise of good weather the next day, we scheduled a full-day, guided glacier hike at Fox’s glacial sibling. Then we settled down for lunch—and I had my first New Zealand whitebait: a sort of omelette made with little minnows.