On Surplus

Seven quarts of Summerhill Dairy goat milk
7 quarts of Summerhill Dairy goat milk

This must not be a new idea, but somehow I’ve gotten it into my head that the great culinary traditions of the world can probably be traced back to how that particular culture or region chose to deal with surplus. Wouldn’t this make a great book? (Maybe one already exists?)

When you think about a world pre-refrigeration, surplus and seasonal go hand in hand. Nature dictates the seasons, which results in cyclical surplus of several crops at a time. It was these co-occurring fruits, vegetables, grains, meats, nuts, and mushrooms that effectively constrained what people could prepare with what. Come to think of it, wouldn’t this make a great cookbook concept?

What are some examples of foods that might have had their root in a natural surplus? Here are a few off the top of my head:

I have to admit that these are only concepts that have occurred to me over the course of getting a box of fruits and vegetables delivered every other week for the past two years. The seasonal veggie box idea is such a brilliant concept, I have to wonder sometimes why it’s limited to CSAs. Why doesn’t Whole Foods offer a subscription veggie box? Or Safeway?

It’s definitely crossed my mind that in some future life I might lead a more agrarian lifestyle, but saying I’d like to be a farmer reeks of a kind of wannabe Pollanian hipsterism. Instead, if I look at it from the perspective of surplus, both in creating it (too many sheep, too much wool, too much milk, too many vegetables, etc) and dealing with it (lamb, yarn, cheese, canning, etc), the agrarian ideal, for me at least, becomes much more real, and potentially enjoyable. Like problem solving on a seasonal scale.

5 Comments

Katie M.

We call ’em smallholders in the UK. People with a bit of land and a few chickens, who probably have another job/a spouse with a job that paid for the house and land.

Nice. Of course I had to look up Smallholding in Wikipedia.

Roberta

In New Zealand they’re called ‘lifestyle plots’…

Interesting also how classic food pairings represent the seasonal availability of ingredients: lamb and apricots, peach and blueberry desserts, or cassoulet developed because those ingredients were around simultaneously. There is no freezer on A/V, so we are compelled to think about what will keep at ambient water temp (50 deg.) in the bilge. And have been canning like mad. For a great seasonal abundance cookbook, try The Cook and the Gardener.

Csg, exactly. It’s that simultaneity of certain things at certain times that’s really struck me with the veggie box. I’m also reminded of the Three Sisters of Native American agriculture. These are definitely thoughts I want to explore more, even if only through my own cooking.

Thanks for the book recommendation, that actually looks really interesting, like a more food-centric Year in Provence. As far as canning goes, something that’s been sitting in my Amazon.com shopping cart for a while is Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It… Figured you might enjoy.

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