The souvenir I didn’t get…yet
Ubud is a shopper’s paradise, and not just for souvenirs. Paintings, sculpture, clothing, furniture, and more are all available for sale, much of it locally handmade and at reasonable prices. Of course we don’t have extra room in our packs, so we haven’t really been in a shopping mood. Anything we buy either has to be small enough to carry, or small enough to send home. For the most part, we just take photographs.
The good news is that there’s so much for sale, it almost becomes an undifferentiated blur, which makes it easier to ignore. That is until the other day. I was walking down Monkey Forest Road in Ubud, and something caught my eye. It appeared to be a cow skull, like you might see decorating a ranch in New Mexico, except this one was adorned with intricate carvings. The centerpiece of the design was a portrayal of Ganesha, the Hindu god of knowledge, surrounded by decorative floral flourishes around the eye sockets and down the snout. I later discovered that the skull most likely belonged to a water buffalo (based on the distinctive horns).
Carved water buffalo skull in Ubud, Bali
It stopped me in my tracks. I didn’t have my camera with me, but I soon went back to take a photo. I inquired about the price: 3.5 million rupiah, or about $350. Not a king’s ransom, but not a steal either. I was more concerned about the logistics of shipping it home. I talked to a specialized cargo company to try to get an estimate, but they said they couldn’t ship bone.
I tried to ask myself (and Stephanie) what I liked so much about it. On one hand, it’s completely unusual. I’ve never seen anything like it. I appreciate how it transforms a reminder of death and decay into something uplifting and beautiful. I like how Ganesha, the Hindu god of knowledge is juxtaposed against the skull of a buffalo, which, like cattle, are sacred to Hindus (in India at least). I like how this symbol of the American West is commingled with the exotic East. It just gets me on so many levels.
The carving portrays the Hindu god of knowledge, Ganesha
I found some more carved skulls in two other stores, ranging in price from 1.2 million to 2.5 million rupiah, but none were as delicate and sophisticated as that first one I’d seen. I tried to ask how I might ship one home, and though I came up against something of a language barrier, I got the sense that bubble wrap, a box, and the post office were the most obvious way to go. Apparently the horns can be removed for easier shipping, but still it must weigh 15-20 pounds. I can’t imagine what it would cost to send to the US.
I went back to the first store, figuring if I could talk down the price, maybe that would motivate me to foot the shipping bill, but they wouldn’t budge below 3 million rupiah. I also considered visiting the workshop of the man who carves the skulls (as it’s usually much cheaper to buy directly from the artist), but we already had plans to go to Amed, so I didn’t have time to arrange a visit.
Anyway, we’ve got a week left in Bali, so there’s a chance we could go back through Ubud and/or check out the workshop on the way to the airport. What do you think? Am I crazy? Is it worth pursuing?
Update, Jan 6, 2011: On Monday we drove up to Tampaksiring to try to find the artist. We’d been communicating over email, and I told him I’d be coming. Of course when the taxi driver finally found his workshop, he was asleep. Someone there directed us to his studio in town which turned out to be the same as the one I’d gotten his card from in Ubud. Many nice carvings, but few additional skulls, and none that grabbed me as much as the first one.
The most interesting thing about the taxi ride, other than the beautiful countryside on the way there, was that Tampaksiring really is a center of bone carving, and many shops had carved skulls hanging out front. However, we’d already seen countless mediocre examples of carved skulls in Ubud (intertwined dragons, celtic knots, Native Americans, flat designs, mismatched horns, etc), so I didn’t want to waste our time looking at every last carved skull in Bali. All signs were pointing to the Ganesha skull. It was still hanging outside the store in Ubud on our way to Tampaksiring, I just hoped it hadn’t been snatched up in the hour since we’d been away. Of course it hadn’t, and 3 million rupiah later, I was walking down the street to our bungalows with a buffalo skull, horns and all, in both hands.
Justin carrying the skull down Monkey Forest Road
This turned out to be a transformative experience. All over Ubud there are countless men sitting on the sidewalks asking everyone who passes “Transport? You need taxi? Maybe tomorrow?” Over and over and over again. From across the street. Combined with the universal two-hands-turning-the-steering-wheel gesture. It’s enough to drive folks a little crazy. But here I was, with this giant skull in my arms, horns poking out beyond my shoulders, and suddenly every taxi driver saw me in a new light. Their eyes would widen when they realized what they were seeing. They’d yell out “Buffalo!”, point, and make various gestures of approval. At one point someone even started singing Bob Marley’s “Buffalo Solider”. Not once did they ask me if I wanted transport.
comments: 38 so far...
jackie
that thing is gorgeous. also, it screams “I found this in my travels to faraway lands.” for better or worse.
Joy
I think if you like it that much, you should get it. When are you going to be back there again in your lifetime? You guys aren’t the type to get a ton of souvenirs, so when you do, it should be something that “gets you on so many levels” like that.
Personally, I find that I never remember the price or hassle of getting something like that home once I’m back from the trip… I just look at it and feel glad I got something I really liked from the place while I could.
Let us know what you do!
Bri/Dad
Your grandmother thinks it would be a great conversation piece. I’m of mixed emotions, but “beauty” is in the eye of the beholder and it’s totally up to you. We’re here if you want to send it to us.
terrie
Stunning. Absolutely beautiful.
Go back. Visit the artist if you can. It will be a memory of a lifetime, regardless of what you decide to do about the object itself.
justin
Wow, the crowd has spoken! Thanks for the feedback. Post title updated accordingly (added: “yet”). I definitely want to visit the artist’s workshop. We’ll see where it goes from there.
Eric
It’s obvious that you need to get this (or another one from the same artist). It’s terrible and beautiful all at once, and “gets [you] on so many levels”.
Jen
I may book a trip there just to go find this piece :) Gorgeous. Hope you get it and post some info about the artist!
justin
Jen, ha! That reminds me of the woman who flew to Bali for a plate of “Anthony Bourdain approved” pork.
justin
I’ve added an update to the bottom. Also, turns out it’s actually a water buffalo skull. Oops! I’ve revised the post accordingly.
Ben
stunning piece! Would you happen to have the address/ name of this workshop in Ubud. I will be visiting soon and this piece of art would make a perfect souvenir!
justin
Ben, the place I’d recommend checking out is Pegasus Fine Art, located at the southern end of Monkey Forest Road in Bali before it veers east towards Jl Hanoman. They also have a gallery in Tampaksiring. There are several other shops along Monkey Forest Road and one on Jl Dewa Sita that also offer water buffalo skull carvings, but the quality varies. The place where I got my skull was a very small bone carving/jewelry shop near the top of Monkey Forest Road (I’m not even sure it had a specific name), but the only skull they had for sale was the one I bought. Good luck! Feel free to email me if you have any more questions
stephanie.
Hi,
I wanted to get this exact skull! I didn’t because I was unsure of how it would go with customs getting into australia, did you have any problems?
I’m regretting not buying it so much, I almost want to plan another trip just to go and get it!
justin
stephanie, yep, I bought it and shipped it to the US. It took over three months (by sea), and survived the journey in one piece. Now it’s in storage in California while we get settled. Hope to take a new photo of it when we can find a place to re-hang it in it’s new home.
Paul
Had it been fumigated? Did you have to get a certificate of fumigation before it was shipped?
justin
Paul, I doubt it, and no.
Anne
So I’m curious. What company did you use to ship it back to the U.S.? I was just in Ubud and got back to the states a week ago. I actually bought one too, but customs seized it….that was a very heartbreaking moment. I am trying to figure out how to have one shipped without it being taken….again:(
justin
Anne, oh no! I just used Indonesia Post (on Jl Jembawan). They packed it up real good (cost me ~$200 to pack and ship by seamail) and it made it all the way to the US about three months later.
Anne
Ok, I should’ve done that in the first place. As you can tell, I’m determined to find another one:) Thanks for the info.
Danielle
Hey! These are amazing :) We bought the same color, style, with Ganehsa, it is so beautiful, talked the guy down to 1.5 million rupiah we bought a few other things. Now…just waiting to see if it makes it into Canada!!!!
justin
Danielle, definitely send me a photo of yours if you have one, or after it arrives in Canada. I went all over the place looking for a carved skull of similar quality as this one, but none were as good, so I went back and got this one. Sounds like you found a good one, and got a good deal as well.
Ryan
Hey Danielle, can you tell me where you bought yours? And how much did it cost to send to Canada? Is there a way to get the packaging done somewhere cheaper? Sorry for all the questions but I am in Ubud right now looking at some. Thanks. And Justin that one looks awesome! Good purchase!
Daryl
What a beautiful piece, dont suppose you fancy selling it? ;-) Let me know!
justin
Daryl, thanks for the offer, I think I’m going to hang on to it for a little while, especially now that I’ve got a place to hang it!
Daryl
:-) hay cant blame me for asking, you dont try you’ll never know. Enjoy it, for you it has a story to go with it which is priceless.
& congrats on your new condo, its beautiful! Having just bought myself (in London) I know how stressful it can be.
Sarah
Hi Justin – could you please share the email contact for this skull? I need to buy one :-)
justin
Sarah, I responded to the email you sent. Let me know if you need any more information.
Bill
I just returned from Ubud with a Water Buffalo myself! To get it home I just wrapped it really well and took it on the plane as a carry on. With the horns removed and laid against the skull it wasn’t huge but not small either.
I got questioned at every check point on what it was but no major hassles. Apparently you can not take them into Australia.
Skye
Hi Justin,
can tell me exactly where including address you got it. It is quite a beautiful piece. The showroom and the workshop of the artist.
I am heading to Ubud in April and a carved buffalo skull is one of the things I am looking for.
I will have to look into the logistics of shipping or bringing with me into Australia as I live there.
Thanks
justin
Skye, I bought it from a shop that had only one. There are 3-4 shops along Monkey Forest Road and Dewi Sita that sell carved Buffalo Skulls. The road is very short, so walk around, take a look, and see if you find one you like. Probably the nicest work you’ll find is at Pegasus Gallery, shortly before the bend in Monkey Forest Road at the southern end.
JD
Justin, Is it possible for you to provide me with the artists email address? I would like to ask him a few questions about his technique as this piece is so amazing to me I would like to try something similar.
justin
JD, I shot you some information in an email. The short of it is, I’m not 100% sure who the artist is, but based on the quality of the piece, I have a hunch.
Amanda
I saw one of these in the Netherlands and have been trying to find out where it came from! Ubud, now I know! Thanks
tpot
We just made it home from Bali with two carved cow skulls in our carry-on luggage. Both very intricately carved and purchased from the artist in Tampaksiring. We paid $50 each for them. It would have been $250 to ship them so carry-on was the way to go. It was kind of a hoot seeing airport security react to them but no problem getting them into the states. Ours actually have been wired for a small light fixture. At first I thought that was a tacky feature that I would remove, but OMG – it is so cool to see lit up!
justin
tpot, I’d love to see a photo of the skulls lit up a night. Sounds like you got a great price for them as well. Since we were going to be traveling for another 8 months, shipping was our only option.
Allie
I would like a buffalo skull. How do i get one justin?
justin
Allie, unless you’re lucky enough to stumble upon one in an import shop in the Netherlands, my best advice would be to catch a flight to Denpasar, Indonesia (the airport in Bali) and head to Ubud or Tampaksiring. Good luck.
stephleach
I would love to buy one of these! I saw three at a restaurant in Auburn Al. !!!
Linda
Hi Justin and friends, since you like to travel, maybe I can welcome you in my shop in Koh Samui, Thailand one day. My shop also sells carved cow skulls.
Have a look at my website, Sholinisland.com for more
details. I wish you a nice day!
Linda