Intro to Overlanding

Part I Booking passage on a container ship should have entailed 28 days without internet. But on a whim I looked into satellite phones and discovered that I could rent a “satellite modem” to access the internet anywhere in the…

Safari at Lake Nakuru

The first stop on our overland expedition was Lake Nakuru National Park, 160km northwest of Nairobi. According to the standard itinerary we should have stopped earlier, at Lake Naivasha, to visit Hells Gate National Park, but our mountain gorilla trekking…

Flamboyance of flamingos

One of the highlights of our safari at Lake Nakuru was getting out of the matatus near the shore to experience a “flamboyance” of flamingos up close—or as close as they’d let us get. Flamingos are strange creatures. Contrary to…

Crash of rhinos

Not far from the flamingos, we stumbled upon a family of white rhinos near the shore of Lake Nakuru—our first rhinoceros sighting on the trip (or ever). They didn’t seem very disturbed by our presence, so we were able to…

Crossing the equator on land

In the absence of any signage on the high seas, I captured our first equator crossing in the form of a GPS reading aboard the Cap Cleveland. Since then, we’ve crossed the equator only twice on our adventure, both times…

I never would have imagined that one day I’d find myself in Rwanda

We spent a night at an overland campground in Turbo, Kenya, outside of Eldoret. The next morning we crossed the border into Uganda (and later the Nile) as we made our way to Kampala, the capital. We spent two nights…

Mountain gorillas

The alarm went off at 4:40 so we’d be up in time for breakfast. At 6 we loaded ourselves into two 4x4s for the 45 minute drive to Volcanoes National Park, where we met up with the other 50-60 people…

White Nile Whitewater

After our long day with the mountain gorillas, we had a free day in Musanze, so a group of us went to see Lake Kivu, which forms the border between Rwanda and the Congo. It’s a limnically active lake, which…

Ugandan chapati cooking

Though I found cooking classes pretty much everywhere I looked in Southeast Asia (e.g. Bali, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand), I discovered in India that they tended to cluster around a few tourist-friendly cities (like Udaipur and McLeod Ganj). When…